London startup Solena Materials raised €5.9 million to commercialize AI-designed protein fibers, targeting fashion industry sustainability amid EU microplastics regulations.
London-based Solena Materials announced on 05 May 2025 a €5.9 million Seed funding round led by SynBioVen and Winton Capital founder Sir David Harding. The synthetic biology startup uses AI algorithms to engineer protein-based textile alternatives, aiming to help fashion brands comply with EU microplastics restrictions adopted 17 October 2023. Funding will expand production at their White City facility, with pilot partnerships rumored with luxury conglomerates.
AI Accelerates Biofabrication Timelines
According to Solena’s press release, their machine learning platform reduces protein fiber development cycles from years to months by simulating 14,000+ molecular configurations daily. This approach mirrors techniques used by MycoWorks, which secured $125 million in September 2023 to scale mushroom-based leather alternatives.
Regulatory Pressure Reshapes Textile Innovation
The EU’s microplastics regulation bans intentionally added synthetic fiber fragments by 2031, creating urgency for biodegradable alternatives. Material Innovation Initiative’s 2023 report estimates next-gen materials will capture 3-5% of the $642B global textile market by 2026.
Historical Precedents in Bio-Material Adoption
Current investment patterns recall the 2018-2020 surge in lab-grown meat startups, where companies like Memphis Meats (now Upside Foods) raised $181M despite scaling challenges. Similarly, Bolt Threads partnered with Stella McCartney in 2017 on mushroom leather before pausing operations in 2023 amid production hurdles.
Solena’s technology faces comparable scalability tests. While their fibers biodegrade 94% faster than polyester in OECD 301B testing, per EU-Startups, costs remain triple conventional textiles. The startup claims automation improvements could achieve price parity by 2028.